At check in, at the Paphos Breeze, we had asked if we could extend our stay by a few nights more and we were directed to their website. We checked and there was lots of availability, so we left it. The next day their website was saying that there was no availability. Booked out. Strange. We heard mumbling amongst other guests on package deals from the UK that their flights were being changed, brought forward. Leaving them with no choice but to cut their stay short and return to the UK. We saw Sun World holiday reps sitting around the hotel in bright yellow shirts talking to guests in low voices. The hotel was closing down and so were all the other hotels along the coast, across the whole island, in fact. The Corona Virus was taking hold.
Do i stay or do i go? With flights booked onward to Crete, the question arose as to whether this was a good move or would it be better to stay put here and ride out the storm. We checked with the Greek hotels and airline. As they were happy to honour our bookings and offer vouchers for a future trip, we decided to stay put on l’isle de Cypre’. We booked an Airbnb with Daniella who also arranged for her friend and taxi driver Paul to look out for us.
On St Patricks Day we checked out of the Paphos Breeze and met Paul the taxi driver. We stopped at the supermarket on the way to stock up on provisions. The supermarket already had strict measures in place. We had to sanitize our hands before donning gloves. Then the trolley was sanitized before we used it. There were signs to stay 2m back from people. It wasn’t busy. Paul helped us find stuff as we made our way around the aisles. We loaded up our trolley and arrived at the till. Paul then helped pack the bags and load them into them car. He got our shopping points added to his card for his troubles! This was to become routine for he and Mark over the following weeks.
The villa was very nice. It had a large living area and two bedrooms on the ground floor and a further two bedrooms upstairs. Outside was a pool and barbq with some outdoor seating. The boys quickly established which rooms they would commandeer while we cleaned the ‘not so clean’ kitchen and stored the messages. We developed a routine doing school work and extra iPad time, having lunch and taking a walk.
The beach path which ran past all the big hotels was lovely. We heard rumours of beaches closing in other countries so we made sure to get out there for a walk every day while we could. Some days strong winds blew but we still headed out and enjoyed the sea breeze. Then one week later things changed. The lockdown was upped a notch. The airport closed. The beaches closed. We had to stay home.
An initial sense of pending doom soon passed and we settled into the new normal. We spent four more weeks in Daniella’s villa. Mark went to the shops once a week with Paul. I didn’t get further than the recycling bins. We needed to text the government if we wanted to leave the house but our international phones didn’t work. We contacted the Irish Embassy. They were helpful. They advised us to get Cypriot SIM cards. Information from the Cypriot was mainly in Greek. The barking dog next door woke us early most mornings. The barBQ caught fire one evening. The security alarm beeped one night and woke us again. The boys tried out the cold pool and once they got used to the temperature, they loved it.
I did some Zumba classes on zoom with Rebecca in Toronto and Sabrina in Sag Harbour. Mark had several outings to a zoom pub night. The boys were enjoying being in one place and getting extra iPad time. We continued with our school work. We read lots of books, some we had taken from the borrow library in the Paphos Breeze. The boys enjoyed art lessons with Mo Willians. We visited the Cincinnati zoo online and followed their lockdown lessons too. We Skyped Mam and Gwen & Noel. We had group zoom parties with the family to wish Ray, Eileen and Celia happy birthdays. I ‘went’ to mass every Sunday morning as Peadar O Riada and Cor Cuil Aodha recorded Fr O Brien saying mass in Cuil Aodha and broadcast it on facebook. We watched zoom interviews on the Late Late Show and saw how people all over the world were adjusting to this new life. How would this lockdown have worked ten years ago before we all become so connected?
We celebrated St. Patrick’s Day, Mother’s Day, our 13th wedding anniversary and Easter in Daniella’s villa. We had gifts delivered from ‘an siopa’ in Ballyvourney to Mam for Mother’s Day. We ordered an Easter egg from Siobháns for her on Easter Sunday. We exchanged nice cards for our anniversary, the boys surprised us with some special designs of their own. When Orlaiths birthday came around we arranged for magician Tony Baloney to do a zoom session for us which we all enjoyed from Cyprus and Dublin.
Then with the island being closed and no tourists about we decided to look into the options of alternative accommodation. We found a lovely villa on the Cyprus Villas website and Mark spent a long time bargaining for a lockdown price that was a lot less than the usually 400Euro a night charged. We texted the government and with passports in hand a Villa representative escorted us across town. We moved to Villa Oasis and settled into stage two of our lockdown in Cyprus.
We developed a routine. Tea in bed with our outstanding view and ‘Rising Time’ on RTÉ radio. Cyprus being two hours ahead of Ireland helped make it a not too early start. Breakfast outside on the patio with Marty on Lyric FM. School work till 12.30. Schoolbooks available online aided our homeschooling endeavours. Lots of resources available, too many in fact, hard to keep up. RTÉ learn introduced school TV. Muinteoir Cliona became an addition to our mornings with classes on English, Maths, SPHE, always something new. After lunch we swam, read, watched TV, took walks. We now had the phones to text and we had a cliff walk on our doorstep. After dinner we caught up on FaceTime calls, boys had treats and watched TV, then it was our TV time. We watched numerous box sets on Netflix and Satellite TV in our villa before bedtime with John Creedon on the Radio. Days passed in a blur.
We accepted Mark’s new post as Professor in Loughborough and raised a glass to toast our symbolic crossing back over the Atlantic and resuming life in Europe after over ten years in North America. Kids were getting excited about the prospect of buying a house with a garden and settling down near to home, away from the newly developed madness of airports and travel.
The temperatures soared, The thermometer hit 40 degrees. Warm sirocco winds blew in from Africa. This is May, what happens in August? We need to get out of Cyprus before the height of the summer. The pool guy Wayne told us not to believe the weather forecast from the Cypriot government, workers are allowed to stay home from work when the temperature passes 40. So real temps are not released! He also regaled us with stories of the fines being imposed on people for breaking the lockdown curfew. A €2000 fine for breaking the rules several times and then maybe pushing the guard in question led to a three month prison sentence. The church with twelve cars in the car park over Easter, no sign of the priest but the parishioners were found hiding in the basement. The supermarket anticipating the fine for opening on a bank holiday paid the €8000 fine in advance and went ahead with business as usual!
Lockdown measures started to lift. More fishermen were visible on the rocky outcrops along the coast walk. The already busy roads got somewhat busier. The walking path now had other walkers. The pool guy, Wayne, announced that we were free. Maybe free to roam but the airports are still closed so we’re still a long way from home, we thought. No need to text the government for permission to leave the house once a day. In fact, several outings per day were now permitted. No longer a need to carry our passports on these excursions. Mark continued to go to the supermarket once a week. They provided a taxi home after shopping. Great service.
Then on Monday, we arranged a trip out of the villa. Taxi driver Paul picked us up. The Monastery on the hill was founded in the 12th century by a monk named Neofytos. He was a hermit who spent many years here. While living here he wrote several manuscripts including a handbook of monastic life and an essay on the acquisition of Cyprus by the Crusaders.
Neofytos dug three cells in the limestone rock with his bare hands. Rumour has it that he was fleeing from King Richard the Lionheart at the time. The cells still exit today and the frescoes, perhaps painted by him, both at the entrance and inside the cells are still intact and fresh looking now, eight hundred years later. The doorway to the cave was very low, this was built intentionally to keep the heat and sunlight out in the summer months. Also it necessitated that people bow to God on entering and exiting the cave. The caves are the oldest part of the Monastery and an interesting visit. The Monastery is still inhabited by monks. The Monastery church was another interesting place to visit. The walls were covered in gold paintings. There was an ornate silver coffin on display bearing most of the remains of the body of Neofytos while his skull was placed closer to the Altar in a separate case. The freestanding dome of the church was built without cement and adds a sense of grandeur to the serene setting. The gift shop was open for the first day since lockdown measures were eased. We purchased some postcards and a jar of local honey which Eoin is looking forward to trying on his cereal!
Next stop on our cultural day out was Agios Georgios or the Church of Saint George. Perched on a cliff overlooking the harbour below and the little island of Geronisos, this Church was built in 1928 in Byzantine style. The cliffs are home to several caves which served as hiding places for the locals during enemy raids. Today they’re used by fishermen for storage. Inside the church the eye was drawn up to another freestanding dome and the flickering candlelight gave a special feeling to this place of worship.
We drove a little further along the coast and after a bumpy descent down uneven terrain we arrived at Avakas Gorge. The pebbled path to the ravine was strewn with some large boulders that had rolled down from the banks. The river Avgas runs through the deep ravine. Boulders scattered along the riverbed coupled with the steep craggy banks made for an exhilarating walk through the gorge.
Time for a lunch stop where we enjoyed some cold water and some local specials like Moussaka, Leftiko and Pork Pittas with nice salads. The drive back back along the coast road was mesmerizing with glittering azure waters on one side and banana plantations on the other.
The EdroIII was a cargo ship that ran aground during rough waters in 2011 while travelling from Rhodes to Limassol. The wreck remains resting against the rocks in the Sea Caves area. Tourists like to photograph it as the rusted hull contrasts with the clear blue waters and white rocks.
After retreating to the refuge of our villa for a few days it was time to venture out again. We took a taxi to Paphos old town. We intended to visit a bookshop there. The shop was taking Covid restrictions very seriously. We were stopped at the door. They would only allow four customers at a time into the huge shop. Shea and I waited at the door while Mark and Eoin tried to find a book. The owner followed them around and moved them from the kids section when another older customer wandered over that way. It wasn’t conductive to doing business so the boys left empty handed! We walked to the market which was closed and empty. Lunch was a nice burger in a cafe with outdoor seating. After a quick walk through the deserted old town with a stop for ice creams and coffee it was time to head back to our sanctuary. No need to be rushing out again in a hurry!
Back to Tommy Fleming in his Jeep, Marty in his shed and Hector in his garage! Entertainment from Ireland reminding us that we’re not alone in these strange times. Uncle John of ‘the long john jump band’ singing his heart out every evening on YouTube helping to boost people’s morale as we’re all caught in the throes of the pandemic.
The birds, ohh the birds. Everywhere. It’s sometimes like a Hitchcock movie around the pool. My phone was set to birdsong for my morning alarm. I thought about changing that when I was awakened for real by some pigeons nesting in the air conditioning unit outside our bedroom window at about 6am one morning. Then the bird theme took on a sinister level as first one tried to fly into first the kitchen and then the bedroom narrowly missing the window upstairs. Then one brushed Marks cheek while we sat outside and finally one flew full whack into the bedroom window and fell to the ground, not one of the lucky ones. Definitely time to change that alarm!
Another excursion was planned for Monday morning. Taxi arrived at 10.30 and delivered us to the Mosiacs at Kato Paphos, on the harbor. It had failed us to access this site on the day the tourist places closed down so this was take two. We sanitized hands and donned plastic gloves before entering. The archaeological park presents history from Cyprus under the Roman Empire when this was the capital city. The site exists from over 2000 years ago but it was only uncovered in 1962. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site the lavish mosaics indicate a place of ostentatious wealth.
The mosiacs are so well preserved, it’s amazing to think that they are exposed to the rain and the sunshine and still look so fresh. Being the only visitors to the site was exceptional. Usually the place is packed but we had it all to ourselves. The house of Aion was an enclosed villa with interesting mosaics. The central panel on the floor depicts five different mythological scenes. The house of Theseus was outdoors. The first mosaic we saw was the mythical duel between Theseus and the Minotaur in the Labyrinth of Crete. We also saw the first bath of Achilles and then walked through the tall columns and long corridors of the former palace of the Roman Governor. The house of Dionysus is laid out with wooden platforms from which the mosaics can be viewed, it’s the oldest mosaic floor in Cyprus. The house covers 2000 sq m and depicts images of hunting, the four seasons and multi colored geometrical motifs.
We left the site and walked along the harbor. We got some postcards and souvenirs. Then we had a lovely lunch in a waterside cafe. The salmon, salad, pasta and pork kebabs were all excellent. Harbor side or Kato Paphos was a much nicer area to spend time than Pano Paphos or the old town. Nonetheless, it was time to head back to Villa Oasis, our sanctuary.
We had many nice days in the villa working and relaxing. Dining outside every day was a treat and the sunsets were spectacular. The pool warmed up too.
The nearby beach was called Potima Bay. It made for a stunning view but there were signs warning of rip currents. We could see the sea bed churning up on certain days. It was a rocky beach, great for collecting treasures for stone art. The popular bar ‘See you’ had live music some nights which carried to our patio.
Shea liked to head out on beach walks while Eoin preferred to sit by the pool reading material for his online Harry Potter course ‘Hogwarts is Here’. We had several rock climbing, stone skimming, treasure gathering excursions which always involved a few selfies!
On another excursion we visited the ‘Tombs of the Kings’. The cemetery was used during the Hellenistic period. The tombs are described as ‘royal’ due to their imposing stature, however, it is thought that they were used to enterre rich citizens and high officials rather than royals. We saw eight tombs which were mostly below ground level and consisted of several chambers. The architecture of the underground monuments imitates houses of the same period. Many of the entrances were similar to temple facades with stone steps down leading down to the underground vaults. Large Doric columns and big sandstone boulders add to their grandeur. Some of the tombs were originally decorated with frescoes. Over the following centuries the opulent tombs were plundered and any displays of wealth were stolen.
These large carved tombs in Paphos are similar to tombs found in Alexandria, Egypt and Northern Greece. They indicate strong Greek influences in Pafos at that time. The site was later neglected and many tombs destroyed due to the conversion of the local region into a stone quarry. The tombs are now inhabited by birds. The site is large and a peaceful place to explore with wonderful sea views. Again we were the only tourists on the site of one of the biggest tourist attractions in Cyprus which was registered a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980. We walked from the Tombs to Jimmys Killer Prawns for a great lunch of fish, local wine and yes prawns! Then we popped into Lidl for a few essentials before heading back to base.
Almost two months spent in the beautiful Villa Oasis in Pafos. We will really miss the strange days of ‘lockdown in paradise’ that we spent here waiting for the airports to reopen.
The day we left the villa we had a visit from Roger who gave us a card saying ‘sorry to see you go’ and a box of Merci chocolates. Then Wayne came to see to the pool and entertain us with more stories. At eleven Paul collected us and bidding farewell to Villa Oasis and Paphos we headed for Larnaca again.
First stop was at the Aphrodite rock, Petra tou Romiou. The crystal clear sea and white cliffs made for a pittoresque scene. The added mystery of the mythological tale of Aphrodite being born here adds to the allure of the area and draws many tourists to the spot. We were the only visitors there today. Boys weren’t so impressed with out pit stop at a donkey sanctuary!
Ancient Kurion was a major centre of Religious, Political and Cultural life. The ruins are well preserved and made for an interesting visit. First stop, The house of Eustolios with its mosaics floors and spectacular views over the sea below. It was a private residence with over 30 rooms. Next stop was the Amphitheatre. Maybe the best preserved amphitheatre we’ve seen. It was well built and made to last! As we stood in the centre floor and spoke our voices echoed into the theatre. The flagstone is hollow to allow for voices to carry. Last stop was the public baths. Walking through the Agora, with marble columns still standing, we imagined a busy market place of years ago. The baths were huge with brick columns used to heat the water. The cliffs were very windy!
From Kurion we drove to Kolossis castle. The well preserved castle was a Crusader stronghold in the Middle Ages. Locally grown sugar cane was refined here and was one of the main exports from Cyprus at the time. The production of sweet wine followed. The wedding banquet of Richard the Lion heart was held here.
We had a fantastic lunch with Paul in the nearby cafe. All the food was homemade. The owner prepared a platter of the specials for us to share. No need to eat again tonight!
After a fun day exploring Cyprus we arrived again at Larnaca. We passed the salt lakes, looking much drier than when we left. They will be fully dried up in another month. We checked into the Island Hotel and bid Paul farewell. We were the only guests in the hotel. The receptionist was pleased to see us back again and gave us her card in case we ran into any problems on our travels. A beach walk before bed. Planes were flying overhead again. The beach beds and umbrellas were out. A walk up town and some gelato and we were ready to go. The taxi driver to the airport recognized us. He had driven us to Nicosia. Our trip came full circle and now it’s time to say Cyprus over and out.
Hairylambthewanderyears 